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[婚庆礼仪] 那一段愤然的忧伤,究竟是美,还是丑,早已没有了定论了,只是微微的有些许习惯

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发表于 2013-10-10 15:33:18 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式

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通往青海湖的路上,沿途的景色引的我们在车内,发出阵阵惊奇的欢呼声。青藏高原的山没有多少植被,远远望去是一些浅褐浅紫色的草,洁净蔚蓝的蓝天下白云朵朵,绵延的山坡上到处可见飘扬着的五彩经幡,和有着浓郁的宗教气氛的建筑,牧草上静静的羊群、牦牛在悠闲的吃草,这里的山不像我们陕南的山峰俊秀,郁郁葱葱绿得醉人。如果说我们陕南的山像清扬婉约的女子,那么青藏高原的山像心胸宽广、伟岸、粗犷、豪迈的汉子。

因为是秋天,偶尔在山上也可见层林尽染的浅黄色树林。在静静的、洁净的蓝天白云下,山坡上浅黄的树林,一望无际的草地上、洁白的羊群悠然自得,像一幅天然的油画,醉人心扉。整个途中给我的印象是“静”、“洁”、“蓝”。

途径日月山、倒淌河,有文成公主塑像和行宫。传说当年文成公主远嫁吐蕃王松赞干布时经过此地,远离京城的繁华,来到这荒凉的地方,心中甚是忧伤,可肩负着唐蕃世代友好的重任,无奈的流下思念故土的泪水,河水为之动情,倒头向西流去,带着公主的无限相思流向故里。

过了倒淌河往前行,感觉离天空越来越近,巍峨的山顶上有白茫茫的雪,在阳光的照耀下,散射着耀眼的光芒,白的闪亮,白的圣洁,我们激动的直呼“雪、雪......”。虽然正值中午,阳光明媚,却能看见天上的月亮,正可谓有”日月同辉"的感觉。

在快要到达青海湖时,远远看去,天连着水、水连着天,天湖一色,一片蔚蓝。美丽辽阔的牧草上,一片黄色的油菜花海里,飘扬的五彩经幡,还有白色藏族风格的建筑,房子的周围有风能、太阳能作为能源,看上去像一幅大的经典画卷,美轮美奂。

走近青海湖,湖水湛蓝,清澈,辽阔,在风的吹佛下,湖水泛起朵朵浪花,海鸥展翅飞翔,让人感觉到心胸豁然开朗,有天高任飞翔,地阔任驰骋的豪放。在这祥和、宁静、圣洁、宽广的地方,尽情的释放内心深处的自我,使我们的灵魂在这里得到了净化与洗礼。

关于青海湖的传说,有“汉族传说”、有“藏族传说”、有“蒙古族传说”,最让人不能平静的是有关于仓央嘉措的故事。当年在拉萨八角街的一个酒馆里,微醺的仓央嘉措邂逅相遇给阿爸打酒的玛吉阿米,一个气宇不凡,一个双瞳剪水,清丽脱俗,只一眼,便觉仿佛前生就擦肩遇见过,今生便要与子偕臧。他们的相遇犹如烟花般,却留下了几世传唱。一个叛逆的,在臧佛教伦理与禁忌中穿越荒芜的行者,怎能做到“世间安得双全法,不负如来不负卿”呢!

我漫步在湖边,凝视着宽广宁静的湖面浮想联翩,当年仓央嘉措是否也从这里走过?!今天我是否还能嗅得他当年的气息?!当年的他是否也和我一样暂时忘记了尘世情缘?!是否还在思念他心爱的姑娘玛吉阿米?!在他们的故事里是否还有漫长等待与无尽的守候?!

1683年,在西藏纳拉活域松的地方,一个普通的农民家中诞生了一名男婴,这名男婴就是后来的六世达赖喇嘛仓央嘉措,一位在西藏历史上生平迷离,又极具才华,又备受争议的一届达赖喇嘛。1706年清康熙年间,23岁的仓央嘉措,在解送京城的途中,行至到青海湖湖畔染病圆寂,一个年轻的生命就这样陨落了,成为政治牺牲品。他信马由缰、桀骜的性格,天生就是个多情的诗人,而不是受比丘戒的活佛。正如在他的诗词里所说:和有情人,做快乐的事,别问是劫是缘。

我挥毫为他们蘸一世的痴情,用千年的青词阙歌,为他们唱一曲含血的痴念。铺一纸素笺,在平平仄仄的笺行里,深情的书写他们遥远的忧伤。我听一夜的梵歌,不为禅悟,只为寻找他们那个时代的一丝气息,我转动经筒,不为修来世,只为他们在来生,都能踏上彼此故事的开始。

 楼主| 发表于 2013-10-10 15:34:21 | 显示全部楼层
这个时候,是11年6月。浅浅的阳光打在蓝色短衬衫上。有一种温度,在6月的空气里和着不远处稻田里芳香蔓延。我的心情像头上没有任何修饰的湛蓝的天。随行的人说,鹏,只是在这个时候我才能感受你的快乐。你脸上的落寞,让我觉着很衰老。我笑笑。其实,我一直觉得自己很年轻。因为相片里,我从没有翻到自己嘴角的笑意有衰老的痕迹。

站门外会停留一些不怎么出名的大大小小车辆。桑塔纳,大众,吉普。偶尔也会冒出拖拉机。名车很少,甚至没有。每当列车到点的时候,跑路司机呼的聚集出口,操着浓重的方言大喊,茨坪——井冈景区——宁冈——白沙的有没有!!?对于在异乡听惯普通话的人们,当走出验票口,迎头装进围拢上来的拉客乡人,一般是不会厌恶。站台防弹玻璃的密封性不是很好,可以勉强维持站内中央空调的冷气不外漏。但女播音员标准的普通话会一览无遗飘向站外。不论是从站内走出的归乡人还是站外的跑路司机,没听清或么听懂也罢,纵然听懂了也觉得那是一段不小的距离。在熟悉的土地,空气传过来的乡音不经过任何过滤,这样的乡音纵然带着情绪,悠悠然听来,只会觉得——这里,离我不遥远。

父亲那老掉牙的二手摩托车是我每次回家的代步工具。井冈山站离我新居大概是25分车程(以父亲的车度,约莫要35分)。父亲很瘦小,但他一直习惯穿肥大的衣服。当发动引擎,那硕大的衣袖噗噗飘扬起来,一下就遮全我的身子。继而,父亲几日积攥的山林草气味和浅浅的汗臭扑鼻而来。这个时候,我会把头扭向车后镜看不到的地方。看道旁碧绿的稻田,以及新冒出的屋舍。

六月的稻田经不起风的挑逗。只那么一丁清风,足以掀起一阵有声有色的稻浪。白鹭穿梭隐隐结着禾穗的苗丛。几个村中小子从田垄走过,他走过的地方,田蛙跃进塘中惊起的水声盖过阵阵跫音。
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我不知道如何打破父亲之间的沉默。父亲把我从家载向车站与从车站把我载回家,这二者的时间跨度越长,再次见面我们的沉默也会越长。就像无言的约定,好像一定要经过一定沉默的形式,把心绪真理好了才不会冒昧。才不会突兀。终于,我开口了。爸,最近头还像以前痛吗。家里最近怎么样。见我主动打破沉默,父亲干咳两声回应示。然后像要打开话闸子似的舒一口气。而后,似乎意识到这是别离后初次见面,有的话不便多说,他硬是把舒到嘴边的空气憋了回去。父亲有点尴尬。好咧,我和你妈身体好咧,不用担心。再然后,不光是他,我也不知道要说什么了。

父亲忽然加大了马力。耳边呼呼的风声改过了所有声音。还好,这个时候可以不用说话。

忽然觉得,经过长久的或者不算短暂的别离后,再次相聚,每对父子都会无言以对吧。心酸还是幸福。其中情感的分量。孰比孰重一点。谁知道。

车子行到井冈山市与永新县地界处。路面突然由水泥路变为柏油路。地势由小丘岭猛的成了高山。从视觉到情绪,没有征兆,没有缓冲。一时间完成了所有蜕变。只有突兀的感觉。我看这突然高大起来的丘陵,一时换不过情绪。心一阵阵抽搐。疼痛难忍。

如果在井冈山路段,我还在为“生”这个字冠名“经历”的词义,这个词义多少还带有浪漫主义乐观主义情怀,那么在永新县这个路段,“生”这个字我冠名了“生存”的词义,这个词义纯粹的只是悲观主义情绪。

远山云雾缭缭。在深山里,纵然没有雨,依然能见雾。这一团,那一团。总带有那么一点凉,顺着地势无尽流泻。浪漫情怀在慢慢冷冻。多情渐变无情。冷静也只是冷酷。

父亲的摩托车依旧在一片吱呀声中行驶。硕大的衣袖遮住我镜片。拂下衣袖,眼帘是村屋破了乌瓦,干稻草进了茅房。这些景离我很近罢,这些情离我很远罢。这些情境足以让我回到小村沉默很长一段时间罢。
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