早年，乡村里就有杀冬至猪

成龙2112

早年，乡村里就有杀冬至猪、熏腊味过年的习俗，不仅是冬至节祭祖的需要，还因为腌熏的腊味经过三四个节气到过年时食用正当美味。以前，家中杀了冬至猪，一般只卖半边外壳，剩下的部分除了分送给自家亲戚外，总要留下些上好的五花肉，让屠夫劈成宽而厚的长条，回家拿盆用盐细细抹了个遍，然后搁置高处腌制备用，防止小动物偷腥。过几天，再宰杀了略显肥硕的活鸡、活鸭洗净腌好，用竹签或筷子将鸡鸭的身架子撑开，挂在檐下沥水风干，几天后便可上火去熏，如果是活鱼的话，只要提前一两天宰杀略腌一下就可以焙制了。记得小时候在外婆家，从来不用刻意去熏制什么，只需把腌好盐的肉用铁丝拴了，挂在柴火灶上方吊锅钩的铁索上就可以了，不多时这些猪肉或鸡鸭就会慢慢沾染上烟火灰，应合着饭香隐约散发出馋人的香味，时不时地，还会滴下几滴肥油来，沾落在衣服上是很难洗净的。现在的人家已经很少有柴火灶、吊锅钩的设计了，想要吃腊味通常得到乡下去熏焙，或者集齐了要熏制的肉类用铁丝串好，在杂物间用砖头拢一个临时土灶，将肉密密麻麻挂满了距离灶面正上方一米余远的地方，点燃了木头、柴禾，再瓮上一层茶树籽壳或者粗稻糠，一不会，明火暗下去，烟雾升腾起来。除了留正面一个口子送柴禾外，土灶四方漏风的间隙都用湿粘的黄泥巴封将起来，使柴火保持不完全燃烧状态，再将土灶四周从地面到屋顶用雨布或隔板略围起来，以保证有充足的烟气来熏焙。熏焙肉制品是一项慢功细活，需要不时查看火势，添加茶籽壳和粗糠，还要防止肉类滴油发生火灾。记得那是2009年的冬天，妈妈在家熏肉，后因邻居家办喜事过去帮忙，一时忘记添柴加糠，结果腊肉滴油引发明火上窜，将柴房烧着了，引得消防队来灭火，不仅几十斤精心腌制的腊肉腊鸡化为油污灰烬，那满屋的柴灰、泥水一地狼籍，收拾起来累得够呛不说，对于年末收官毕竟也不是一个好时兆，这是后话。腊味一般熏制一天就够了，把火瓮灭了，等肉食冷却下来，才逐一取出，为了防止水分未完全挥发干而引发霉变，通常都要把熏焙后的腊味挂到阳台上晾晒，想吃的时候随时取了就能用。
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